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Guide
The metal a piece is made from affects how it wears, how it ages, and how much it weighs on the hand, independent of the stone it holds. This guide covers gold at 10k, 14k and 18k, platinum, palladium and sterling silver.
Gold color comes from the alloy mixed with pure gold, not from a different type of gold. Yellow gold uses an alloy close to gold’s natural color. Rose gold is alloyed with a higher proportion of copper, which gives its pink to red tone. White gold is alloyed with white metals such as palladium or nickel, but pure gold is always yellow, so white gold is typically plated with rhodium to achieve a bright white finish.
Rhodium is a hard, bright white metal in the platinum family, applied as a thin plating over white gold to whiten it and add scratch resistance to the surface. The plating wears down gradually with handling and contact, at a rate that depends on how the piece is worn, and the underlying white gold will show a warmer, slightly yellow cast once it does. Replating restores the finish and is a routine, expected part of owning a white gold piece rather than a sign of a problem with it. Platinum and palladium are naturally white and are not rhodium plated.
No metal is universally hypoallergenic, but some are far less likely than others to cause a reaction. Higher karat gold, platinum and palladium contain less base metal alloy and are generally better tolerated by sensitive skin than lower karat gold or sterling silver. Anyone with a known metal sensitivity, particularly to nickel, should mention it before ordering so we can confirm what a specific piece is alloyed with.
| Metal | Purity | Durability | Weight | Hypoallergenic |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 10k gold | 41.7% gold, balance alloy | Most scratch resistant of the common gold karats, owing to its higher alloy content | Lightest of the gold options at a given size | Higher alloy content means a higher chance of a reaction for those sensitive to nickel or other base metals |
| 14k gold | 58.3% gold, balance alloy | A common balance of durability and color for daily wear rings | Moderate | Better tolerated than 10k, though still contains meaningful alloy content |
| 18k gold | 75% gold, balance alloy | Softer and more prone to surface scratching and wear than 10k or 14k | Heavier than 10k or 14k at the same size | Lower alloy content generally means better tolerance for sensitive skin, though not allergy free |
| Platinum | Typically 95% pure or higher | Very durable and does not wear away the way gold does; it displaces under an impact rather than losing material, so a scratch is often a mark rather than a loss of metal | Noticeably heavier than gold at the same size, which some people prefer and others find less comfortable for daily wear | Generally well tolerated, including by those with sensitive skin |
| Palladium | Typically 95% pure or higher | Durable and naturally white, though softer than platinum | Considerably lighter than platinum at the same size | Generally well tolerated, including by those with sensitive skin |
| Sterling silver | 92.5% silver, balance alloy | Softer than gold or platinum and more prone to scratching and denting; better suited to occasional wear pieces than an everyday ring | Light | Usually well tolerated, though the copper alloy can affect those with a specific sensitivity |
Every product page lists the exact metal type and purity for that piece. If you would like help weighing a metal against how you plan to wear it, contact client care.